Tiki Bars are a California creation. Yes, I know, the first
one was in Los Angeles but San Francisco and Oakland became the epicenter of
the tiki movement. It all started with
Ernest Raymond Beaumont Gantt. He was born in 1907 in Texas. This trust fund
baby was the son of an oil tycoon. When Ernest graduated from high school his
father gave him the choice of going to college or taking a trip around the
world. He chose the world. His favorite places seem to be have been those with
an abundance of rum.
As Ernest traveled, he tasted such exotic drinks as the
Singapore Sling and rum served in a coconut. Fancying himself an amateur
bartender, the collected drink recipes as he traveled.
While visiting the Caribbean, where rum was cheap and
plentiful, Ernest honed his bartending skills. He returned to America landing
in Hollywood. It was during Prohibition and he needed a job. So this world
traveling Texan became a bootlegger and he even ran a speakeasy.
In the 1920s, most Americans considered rum a drink for
sailors and the poor. Rum drinkers were referred as “rummies”. During Prohibition
it was difficult to get “cultured people” to drink rum.
Following repeal of Prohibition, Ernest went legit and put
his Caribbean mixology skills to work. In 1934, he changed his name to Don the
Beachcomber and began pouring his own version of the Jamaican classic, Planter’s
Punch. One of Don’s customers was Cornelius Vanderbilt who loved Don’s punch
and told all of his fashionable friendsabout it. Don’s place became Hollywood’s
hottest night club.
To add to the exotic feel of his bar, Don decorated the
place in South Pacific-style and Tiki was born. (Ironic note: Don was pouring Caribbean
drinks surrounded by South Pacific décor.) Besides popularizing Planter’s
Punch, Don also gave us many of the classic tiki cocktails including the Zombie.
That same year up in Oakland, Victor Bergeron opened a small
bar-b-que restaurant, the Hinky Dinks” across the street from his parents’
grocery store. Victor was bitten by the Tiki bug after a visit to Don the
Beachcomber in Hollywood and in 1937, he went tiki. Victor changed his restaurant’s
name to Trader Vic’s (complete with full tiki décor). In 1938, Vic took a trip
to Havana and visited La Floridita – birthplace of the Daiquiri. Returning home
he began experimenting with the basic Daiquiri recipe.
In 1944, some friends visited his restaurant and requested a
special Tahitian drink. Vic went to work. A little of this, a little of that, a
little curacao and a little orgeat. When his friends tasted the concoction it
was proclaimed “Mai Tai roa ae” which is Tahatian for “out of this world, the
best”. Mai Tai was born. (Second ironic note: the Mai Tai, unofficial state
cocktail of Hawaii, was created near the corner of San Pablo Avenue and 65th Street in Oakland.)
Mai Tai Recipe
·
2 oz dark rum
·
1 oz light rum
·
½ oz Orange Curaçao
·
½ oz Orgeat
syrup
·
¼ oz Lime juice
Pineapple wedge and Maraschino cherries for
garnish
|
After World War II, thousands of soldiers, sailors and
marines returned from the South Pacific with a
The 1980s saw many of America’s Tiki palaces close. Today
the site of the original Don the Beachcomber restaurant is a parking lot. In
the 1990s, Tiki made a comeback and drinks with tiny umbrellas are back in
fashion.
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